A Journey on the Bridge of the Nose: The Bizarre and Brilliant History of Eyewear Styles

A Journey on the Bridge of the Nose: The Bizarre and Brilliant History of Eyewear Styles

I. The "Prehistoric" Era: From Reading Stones to the Nose Revolution

The origin of eyeglasses can be traced to 13th-century Venice, Italy—the world's glassmaking center at the time. The earliest spectacles had no temples and were humorously called "balance glasses": two round lenses connected by a rivet, forcing the wearer to hold them precariously on the nose or by hand. Records from a church in Florence, Italy, in 1299 mention a "guild of spectacle makers," while a 1352 fresco in Treviso, Cardinal Hugo of Provence, features the first identifiable pair of glasses in European art.

Interestingly, during China's Southern Song Dynasty (13th century), Zhao Xihu wrote in Dong Tian Qing Lu about "àidài"—"reading stones" made of crystal or smoky quartz, considered the Eastern origin of visual aids. Marco Polo noted in his 1275 travelogue: "Chinese elders wear glasses to read small script," suggesting a mysterious convergence of East-West vision technology.

II. Iconic Styles That Shaped Eras

1. The Monocle—Aristocratic Arrogance
Popular among 18th-19th century European elites, the monocle was not just a visual aid but a status symbol. German officers were particularly fond of it, developing an elaborate "lens etiquette": holding the lens with eye muscles was considered rude; the correct method was to tilt the head back slightly, allowing the lens to snap into the eye socket. Oscar Wilde once quipped: "The monocle doesn't see the world—it sees one's own superiority."

2. Pince-nez—The Art of the Victorian Nose Bridge
A mid-19th century craze in Europe and America, these frameless glasses relied on spring pressure to clip onto the nose. Their popularity gave rise to bizarre "nasal typology"—opticians would recommend different spring strengths based on clients' nose shapes. President Theodore Roosevelt's pince-nez image was so iconic that during his 1912 campaign, opponents created cartoons mocking that "Roosevelt couldn't find his policies if he dropped his glasses."

3. Aviators—From Sky to Stylish Rebellion
Designed in 1936 by Bausch & Lomb as anti-glare goggles for pilots, the iconic teardrop shape and large curvature weren't for fashion but to allow pilots to view instrument panels without turning their heads. During the Vietnam War, they unexpectedly became counterculture symbols: youths wore them to protest the establishment because they "looked both military and futuristic."

4. Cat-eye Frames—A Manifesto of Female Liberation
In the 1950s, as postwar women entered the workforce en masse, designer Altman created the upturned "cat-eye" frame. It cleverly echoed the popular rocket-fin design of the era while shattering the notion that "glasses must be serious." Peggy Olson wearing them during negotiations in Mad Men became a visual metaphor for professional women breaking the glass ceiling.

5. Wellington Frames—The Intellectual's Signature
Popularized in the 1960s by Beatle John Lennon, these thick, square frames were actually inspired by 19th-century reading glasses used by the Duke of Wellington. The Museum of Modern Art in New York once listed them among "the most important design objects of the 20th century," praising them for "successfully transforming utilitarianism into a philosophical stance."

III. Material Evolution: From Tortoiseshell to Titanium

• 14th Century: Frames made of wood, leather, even horn
• 18th Century: Tortoiseshell became a luxury symbol (now internationally banned)
• 1920s: Celluloid introduced the first "plastic glasses," but its high flammability earned it the nickname "portable kindling"
• 1940s: The acetate revolution—malleable and safe, enabling colorful Art Deco frames
• 21st Century: Memory titanium, bio-acetate, even 3D-printed wood, turning each pair into wearable tech statements

IV. The Intriguing Psychology of Eyewear

Psychological studies show that changing perceptions of glasses reflect societal power structures:

  • Middle Ages: Exclusive to scholars and clergy, symbolizing theological authority

  • Age of Enlightenment: Embodiment of reason and science (Newton was often posthumously painted with glasses)

  • WWII Era: Harry S. Truman became the first U.S. president to openly wear glasses, breaking the myth that "leaders must have perfect vision"

  • Internet Age: Zuckerberg's consistent simple frames are interpreted as "minimalist power aesthetics"

V. Archives of Curiosities

• When Benjamin Franklin invented bifocals, he wrote to a friend: "I can now see both the wrinkles on my friend's face and the schemes behind his back—whether this is a blessing or a curse, I know not."
• 1914 London saw "spectacle rental services"—for one penny, customers could borrow glasses at newsstands to read the day's paper
• 1960s France popularized "fake glasses"—lensless frames worn solely to cultivate an "intellectual image"